EXPLORERSWEB.COM / Interview with Antonio Coelho:

“I draw what I feel – and in the mountains I feel what we really are”

"I recall the feeling of friendship. While in C1, I got sick with appendicitis. Joao Garcia (in the image) abandoned his climbing plans and accompanied me instead, first walking for 10 hours until Tseram, where I was airlifted, and staying at the hospital in Kathmandu until I recovered. Only then did he return to Kangchenjunga." (Click to enlarge). "Drawing and mountains have always gone together for me. In the mountains I mostly do quick sketches, for compulsive pleasure." (Click to enlarge) "I like to draw what I feel and not just what I see. Otherwise I would be only representing objects - and that can be done faster and more accurately through photographs." (Click to enlarge). "It is in the mountains where I can feel myself and the others as we really are. As Kant said, beauty can be ugly. Also, when I’m in the mountains I can draw the routes I’d like to climb." In the image, portrait of climbing mate RUI ROSADO (click to enlarge). "At this moment I’m working mostly as an artist and designer – simply because, living in Portugal, it’s easier to get a life out of making illustrations than out of climbing mountains. People around here don’t like hiring mountain guides so much." (Click to enlarge). "I talked a lot with Veikka Gusttafsson about Jean Christophe over dinner. When I went to my tent, there was a full storm raging, with bitter cold and lots of snow. I couldn’t sleep, so I took out my sketchbook and drew a picture of Jean Christophe that I remembered having seen somewhere (in the image). It was like a tribute to a climber from another climber, paid during a tough night on a tough mountain." All drawings courtesy of Antonio 'Toze' Coelho (click to enlarge). Remember the drawing illustrating the last part in the recent HumanEdgeTech Everest special series? The image of Kangchenjunga route topo was drawn by Antonio Coelho. (click to enlarge)

ExplorersWeb: You’re a climber and an artist – what comes through first?

Toze: I am a professional designer, but I am also a mountain guide, so drawing and mountains have always gone together for me. In the mountains I mostly do quick sketches, for compulsive pleasure.

At this moment though, I’m working mostly as an artist and designer – simply because, living in Portugal, it’s easier to get a life out of making illustrations than out of climbing mountains. People around here don’t like hiring mountain guides so much. However, if I could choose, mountaineering would always take first place.

I’m currently designing some mountain drawings that will be printed out onto clothing this summer.

ExplorersWeb: In the era of high-tech, when climbers broadcast live from above 8000 meters, you keep on drawing, like the old pioneers… How do you feel about that?

Toze: We must express ourselves. I like to draw what I feel and not just what I see. Otherwise I would be only representing objects - and that can be done faster and more accurately through photographs.

Like Tibetan Buddhism’s motto goes: “Be Happy with Yourself”.

ExplorersWeb: What do you like to paint most? What do you try to register: lights, feelings…?

Toze: Feelings are the most important. But it is in the mountains where I can feel myself and the others as we really are. As Kant said, beauty can be ugly.

Also, when I’m in the mountains I can draw the routes I’d like to climb. I draw everything I want to climb before actually going for it.

ExplorersWeb: You joined an all-star team on Kangchenjunga. What are your memories of that expedition, the mountain and the climbers you met?

Toze: What I recall most is the feeling of friendship. Everybody accepted me in the team. Then, while in C1, I got sick with appendicitis. Joao abandoned his climbing plans and accompanied me instead, first walking for 10 hours until Tseram, where I was airlifted, and staying at the hospital in Kathmandu until I recovered. Only then did he return to Kangchenjunga. Luckily, he got there right in time to launch a succesful summit bid, along with Ivan Vallejo.

ExplorersWeb: Who or what would you like to paint that you haven’t yet?

Toze: I promised Gerlinde and Ralf I would draw their portrait– I am still trying to find some time to do it. Also, I’d like to draw Reinhold Messner and Edmund Hillary - with their consent, of course.

ExplorersWeb: Paintings often have a story behind them. Is there any drawing you feel especially fond of, because of the memories it evokes?

Toze: There is this portrait of Jean Christophe Laffaille... I remember when the idea came to me. It was last year, in Kangchenjunga’s BC. I talked a lot with Veikka Gusttafsson about Jean Christophe over dinner.

When I went to my tent, there was a full storm raging, with bitter cold and lots of snow. I couldn’t sleep, so I took out my sketchbook and drew a picture of Jean Christophe that I remembered having seen somewhere. It was like a tribute to a climber from another climber, paid during a tough night on a tough mountain.

ExplorersWeb: Can you tell us briefly about your climbing resume – have you any expeditions planned this year

Toze: For the last 15 years I have climbed (rock and ice) and mountain-guided in Portugal, the Pyrenees and Alps. Since 2003 I have climbed in the Himalayas once a year, always with João Garcia as leader: Pumori, Ama Dablam, an attempt on Tawoche... Last year I joined the international team on Kangchenjunga.

This year, I am considering some big wall climbing in Pakistan. Ralf Dujmovits has suggested that the Great Trango Tower could be nice for me, so I may give it a try.

Portuguese Antonio “Toze” Coelho is a regular team member on Joao Garcia’s expeditions.
He captures his experiences through quick sketches and drawings.